Tree pruning tools vary based on the tree’s size, condition, and location. But most homeowners only use basic hand pruners or saws—tools that work fine for shrubs, but fall short for large, mature trees. Many professional tools incorporate aluminum components, which are lightweight and durable, enhancing ease of use and maneuverability.
At Horhut Tree Experts, we use pruning tools that meet ANSI A300 standards and follow ANSI Z133 safety protocols. That’s because we’re not just cutting branches—we’re managing tree structure, health, and long-term stability.
This guide walks through the tools the pros use, why we use them, and why pruning should never be improvised.
Why the Right Tool Matters
Every pruning cut is a wound. If made with the wrong tool—or a dull blade—it can damage bark, tear live tissue, or introduce disease. Proper pruning tools:
- Create clean cuts that heal quickly
- Protect the branch collar and main stem
- Reduce the risk of tearing or crushing
- Keep workers safe when pruning at height
Professional-grade tools also make the work more precise. That’s critical when working on valuable or mature trees, where poor cuts can’t be undone.
The Core Tree Pruning Tools Used by Arborists
Let’s start with the professional-grade equipment we use on most jobs, from residential trees to commercial properties across Pittsburgh.
1. Hand Pruners (Bypass Style)
Used for:
- Small live branches under ¾” diameter
- Detail cuts on ornamentals and young trees
- Hand pruners are also ideal for maintaining flowers.
Why pros use them: Bypass pruners make clean, scissor-style cuts, which are best for live wood. We use high-quality brands like Felco or ARS—tools that stay sharp, handle well, and last under daily use.
Avoid: Anvil pruners. These crush rather than cut. Bad for live branches.
2. Loppers
Used for:
- Limbs between ¾” and 1½” diameter
- Mid-canopy cuts where saws are overkill
Why pros use them:
Long handles give added reach and leverage, which reduces strain. We use loppers with hardened steel blades and shock-absorbing bumpers to reduce fatigue during extended work.
Common mistake:
Using loppers on dry or deadwood. It often splinters. Better to use a saw.
3. Hand Pruning Saws
Used for:
- Limbs 1½” to 4” diameter
- Interior canopy work or tight angles
Why pros use them: Curved blades with aggressive teeth cut on the pull stroke—efficient and precise. Silky and Samurai are top choices. These saws handle well and make smooth cuts without tearing. Hand pruning saws are particularly effective in handling difficult cutting tasks, making them ideal for tough brush and bramble.
Tip: We sharpen or replace blades often. Dull saws = torn cambium and poor wound closure.
4. Pole Pruners
Used for:
- Reaching branches 8–15 feet off the ground, allowing users to extend their reach
- Removing deadwood or suckers
Why pros use them: Manual pole pruners have a rope-pulley system for snipping limbs from the ground. They’re safer than ladders and keep us out of the drop zone.
We also use telescoping fiberglass poles—strong, lightweight, and non-conductive (important near utilities).
5. Pole Saws (Manual or Powered)
Used for:
- Larger or higher limbs beyond reach
- Removing dead or hazardous limbs from the ground
Why pros use them: Electric or battery pole saws make overhead work easy, faster, and cleaner. We use these only when appropriate—too much cutting overhead can be dangerous and imprecise.
6. Chainsaws (Top-Handle and Standard)
Used for:
- Pruning large diameter limbs
- Emergency removals and structural crown reductions
Why pros use them: Chainsaws are a last-resort pruning tool, not a first option. They are used to remove large diameter limbs. Cuts are harder to control, and overuse often leads to poor structure. When we do use them, it’s with precision, sharp chains, and full PPE.
Only certified arborists or trained tree workers should use chainsaws aloft or near power lines. This is where ANSI Z133 safety becomes non-negotiable.
Bonus Tools for Arborist-Level Pruning
7. Rigging Gear
When pruning large limbs over structures, we lower them with rigging lines, blocks, and friction devices. This protects the tree and everything beneath it.
It is crucial to choose a reliable company for using rigging gear safely, ensuring the protection of both your property and the service being performed.
8. Climbing Gear (Harnesses, Spurs, Ropes)
For canopy access pruning, we emphasize the need for proper climbing gear, including harnesses, throw lines, and rope systems, to ensure safety. Spur climbing is never used on trees being preserved—only removals.
9. Sanitizing Tools
We clean and disinfect blades when moving between trees—especially when pruning disease-prone species like oaks or elms. All necessary sanitizing tools are covered to prevent the spread of pathogens. This prevents the spread of pathogens.
Tools Homeowners Should (and Shouldn’t) Use
If you’re pruning small ornamental trees or doing light maintenance, it’s crucial to choose the right tools for safe pruning. Here’s what’s safe to use:
✅ Bypass hand pruners – Sharp and clean
✅ Small hand saw – For branches under 2”
✅ Manual lopper – For low branches or shrubs
✅ Pole pruner – If used carefully on small branches
What to Avoid:
🚫 Chainsaws on ladders
🚫 Topping saws without a plan
🚫 Improvised or dull tools
🚫 Cutting near power lines
🚫 Pruning large trees without training
The line between pruning and removal can blur fast. If you’re not sure, step back and call an arborist.
What Makes Pro Tools Different?
- Precision: Professional tools make perfect cuts that help the tree heal.
- Durability: We use tools made for daily, high-volume use.
- Safety: Insulated handles, rigging-compatible designs, and proper PPE compatibility.
- Standards: Our tools meet the demands of ANSI A300 and Z133.
It’s not just what we use—it’s how we use it.
Why Pruning Isn’t Just About Tools
Even with the best gear, bad cuts cause damage. Investing time in proper pruning techniques is crucial. Pruning properly means:
- Knowing where to cut (at the branch collar, not flush)
- Knowing when to cut (dormant season is best for most trees)
- Knowing why to cut (removal, structure, health, clearance)
- Knowing how much to cut (typically no more than 25% canopy)
That’s why professional pruning is about experience and knowledge, not just a tool kit.
Don’t Let the Tools Fool You
Tree pruning looks simple from the ground. But if you’re using the wrong tools—or using the right tools the wrong way—you can end up harming the very thing you’re trying to care for.
Professionals use specific tree pruning tools for a reason: because the stakes are high. Poor cuts create long-term issues that can’t always be fixed. Our job is to make each cut count.
Thinking About Pruning Your Trees this Season?
TLet us take a look. Horhut Tree Experts brings the right tools, training, and ISA Certified Arborists to every job. We don’t guess—we assess, prune with purpose, and protect the long-term health of your trees.